Boat Building: Floorboards and Stain

OK, if you haven't been following the blog we're at the final stages in completing a frame for a Dave Gentry designed Chuckanut 15 kayak build.  Everything has gone along so far without any real problems. However, I've never built a kayak so there have been a few  learning curves. So far they've not been so sharp that I lost control and went end over end into the trees trying to navigate them. There are a few things I would do a little different. I'll include my thoughts on those things at the end of the project in some final notes on the process.

What we've got to do now is install the floorboards. One of the things that attracted me to this design in the first place was the old school look I saw in it. During the build that idea has kept me focused on how I visualize the completed kayak. I want the overall look to appear to show some mileage or age. That would include the paint scheme and any accessories that will be included. The material for the floorboards was selected with all that in mind. My friend Lewis just happened to have, in his impressive lumber stock, an old yellow pine 1x8 tongue and groove flooring board about 10'  long.

I removed the tongue and groove edges on the table saw with two rip cuts. Afterward, I sliced the board in half resulting in two 3/8" thick boards about seven inches wide. Slicing the board resulted in a wood grain pattern that could be book matched to reflect an older building style. I ripped the slices and it turned out better than I had hoped. 

The board ends  were staggered at the bow end and cut straight across at the stern. They extend about ten inches ahead of frame #2 and five inches behind frame #5. I used a single screw at each cross frame to secure them until I was sure I liked the look. I then replaced the temporary stainless screws with brass ones for style.

Continuing my plan to go old style I mixed up several Minwax stain colors I had and came up with a darker version of their special walnut color. I stained the floorboards and they immediately looked aged. The knots, which I had hoped would fall out when I sliced the boards, fell out. I like it!

Even though most of the frame will not be visible after the shin covers it I decided to stain everything. This will leave no area that looks like new construction. Just seems like the right thing to do. A topcoat of spar varnish will seal and protect the floorboards from the elements and use. The rest of the frame will be left as is.

Since the floorboards are only 3/8" thick and sit about an inch and a half above the keel between cross frames, support cleats are installed so when weight is applied to the floor there is additional support.

Support cleats are attached to the floorboards with brass screws from the topside. They are not fastened to the keel.

I was asked about a tool I've been using to make all the crosscuts and bevels on the frame. It is a Japanese pull saw. Cuts on the pull stroke. It has a very thin blade and is extremely sharp. Once you get used to the way it works it is really handy.

The frame is finished!!

Dave says at this point you should sign it and take some pictures. I followed that instruction as delivered. I also branded a "W" on a cross frame to make it mine.

I found some stainless steel staples today that I needed to start the skinning process. That will begin in a day or so.